What is behind a multisensory experience? What does it really mean to work towards being able to make certain ethical principles that talk about sustainability and synergy between kitchen and territory tangible and easy to read? Based on these questions, a team of professionals, each in their own sector, asked themselves to develop a new concept aimed at connecting man and nature. Horto in fact, it was born with this intention: a gastronomic project and above all cultural, based on knowledge and sharing of some values, such as respect for biodiversity, attention to detail, education for one’s own work and for others. Waiting to see the doors to this open new Milanese spacein september we got a better idea of what to expect by talking directly with chefs, architects, urban planners to understand what Horto really is and how it originated.
It is located in Via San Protaso, behind Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, a stone ‘s throw from the Duomo, in a position that is already experience in itself. Horto sorghum sul taken by the exclusive The Medelan complex, on the top floor of this building, which has recently redesigned its profile, thanks to a flagship project for the area. Horto tells Milan from above, closely connected to its surrounding landscape, which practically embraces its terrace, which looks circular to every Milanese hotspot. The Duomo and Galleria in front, Piazza Cordusio, Gae Aulenti and City Life in the background. A scenic walk thanks to a position that is certainly among the most enviable in the city. Horto is a hanging garden, a niche of soil and greenery hung in the void and at the same time connected to the city, from which it draws inspiration and inspiration.
L ‘landscape architect Raffaella Colombopart of the team, explains this point better: “Horto’s guests will be greeted by a horizontal landscape, but also by volumes and views of an operational and real city, emphasizing the open view of the whole city. The project is reminiscent of history. of the Italian garden with the typical structures revisited in a contemporary key to the experimental Hortus simplicium.The landscape of Horto will not only be decorative, but an integral part of the experience through an open and dynamic solution of biodiversity with special attention to avoiding the consumption of water. The plant world will be inhomogeneous, left to its spontaneous course of life, with colors that will change weekly and seasonally, including periods of stasis, dead essences and mixed lawns that can be walked on. and Horto. “
In addition to the architect and teacher Raffaella Colombo, behind the architectural project also him study Genius Loci Architettura (GLA), while the coordination of the environment is handled by the dean of the Department of Design School at the Politecnico di Milano, Luisa Collina. “Milan’s urban structure, the character of the city and Horto’s position were the starting point for its design. The trail presented challenges, such as inserting Horto into the urban jungle of Milanese roofs or managing to create a dialogue with one of the design capitals without falling into the cliché. Therefore, we followed a philosophy that is very dear to us, namely the dialogue with “genius loci”, the cornerstone of our design, an approach that was found in line with the chef’s. Horto’s position led us to the desire to design a place that, without denying the context, would allow us to experience it from a different perspective, in a detached way that offers itself as a comfortable place to escape the fears of the city. “Studio Genius Loci Architettura explained to us by co-founders Osvaldo Bosetti and Diego Panizza, also CEO.
“The individual areas are well defined, but the volatile boundaries make the room in a harmonious way perceived as a unicum. The first room is the foyer, followed by the lounge, which welcomes guests and gives them a view of the inner courtyard of the building, full of vegetation. Directly connected we find the bar area and the ‘on the go’ area and the bistro, dominated by the large table with cedar wood, which overlooks the show kitchen. In front of the bistro the heart of the restaurant: the kitchen. Three soft openings allow you to follow with in what happens in the kitchen and in the patisserie.Finally the fine dining with a quieter and contemplative identity.The winding wall moves and creates three alcoves, which host oval tables in a more The rest of the hospitality runs along the glass window, overlooking the gallery and the Duomo’s spire.The inner sequence is reflected on the outside, along the terrace that surrounds the restaurant.Here are tables and chairs immersed in a vegetation with a spontaneous and natural gt appearance that nicely frames the view of Milan “.
That sustainability theme it is also present in the choice of the interior: “A design with soft shapes was chosen with the aim of achieving a global monochromatic effect highlighted by the main material we have chosen, namely the rice plaster. This plaster is obtained by mixing rice husks, a waste from rice fields, with the most important binder in the history of architecture: air lime. On the floor, a finish typical of Milanese houses, parquet, but revised with a polygonal shape that breaks with the classic schemes. Also in this case, it is a recycled wood that comes from the boards of old vinegar factories and selected in its lightest shade. Throughout the restaurant, there are accents of light given by champagne’s gold-colored metallic finishes, which provide light reflections and embellish the simplicity of the language. “
Horto is excellent, not only in the stylistic and architectural choices that characterize it, but it is also and above all in the gastronomic proposal that involves some well-known conductors. In fact, there is at the top of the strategic and organizational direction of the kitchen three star cook Norbert Niederkofler, for many years a pioneer in a sustainable philosophy of raw materials, relationships with suppliers, procurement of ingredients and rediscovery of authentic, genuine and innovative cuisine. And it was he who wanted in this new project as resp. Executive Chef and Chef and responsible for the development of the menu. Stefano Ferraro (former pastry chef at Noma) and Alberto Toè (with an important experience at St Hubertus, a local in Niederkofler). They explain how they got here and why they immediately believed in Horto. “Despite the fact that I have been working with pastry for years, my natural desire to cook has never failed. That is why I decided to respond immediately to this call, because it is supported by some ethical principles that I believe in and that I share with the rest of the brigade ”. Stefano Ferraro explains us, who together with his colleague Alberto Noè offer us a taste of what Horto will be. “A restaurant open from breakfastYou can have breakfast at Only bistrodo oneperitif on the terrace and ends with good dinner for dinner, with a very specific philosophy and attention to the territory. In the kitchen, we believe that there must be attention to avoiding waste, and there must be a deep knowledge of how to avoid it. That’s why our lunch will be made exclusively with excesses of dinner processing, to make zero waste – a word abused by many – a gastronomic pride, “continues Noè, who has been there for a while with Niederkofler.
“We have developed the concept of ethical hour: a philosophy that improves the territory with a short supply chain and that includes all the elements of Horto’s microcosm. The ethical hour means fill up with products an hour away from Milan and the result is surprising for the many different ingredients that are found right next door. Now ethics means: rediscovering the region’s culinary riches, strictly seasonal ingredients, collaborating with farms, dairies, farmers and producers no more than an hour from the center of Milan (which can almost organize itself into a kind of consortium that creates further synergies), sea fish and non-bottled water. “The two chefs continue.
In the evening Horto menu will be developed through two taste journeys (five dishes or seven dishes), which therefore finds concreteness in the selection of local ingredients and in the human relationship with local farmers and breeders. Carapace wafer, misomarinated foreget, saffron plin, among the dishes that will be tried, for a concrete but innovative cuisine in the techniques. The cellar, curated according to the same principles, will in addition to international brands also see small wineries that stand out in expertise and quality. News that the two chefs explain to us: the taste menu it will also have the opportunity to be accompanied by infusions, decoctions, kombucha, non-alcoholic liquid preparations reminiscent of the feeling of circularity between food and drink. Horto is a restaurant that therefore lifts and approaches the concept the same to that of the biggest international examples. It becomes a moment of escape and at the same time tries to educate about alternative and urgent themes and consumption models, and it does so with style, elegance and deep beauty.
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