JP’s dream. The woman who carries on the dream of her partner

“The mountains have always fascinated us humans. Sometimes they were part of the story of a hero, of a success, other times they were the scene of tragedies and sacrifices ”.

In the wake of the Marmolada tragedy, many journalists were looking for her to get her comment. But she, Tamara Lunger, “a dreamer in love with the mountains”, preferred to take the time to “rearrange her thoughts” and remain silent. Until last Monday, July 11th.

“I love the mountains – wrote the Italian ski mountaineer and explorer in a post on Fb, the second woman to reach the top of K2 in 2014 – although it sometimes took me to the physical and mental limits. In the mountains, I understood which values ​​I want to find in this gift of nature, without compromising, and that is precisely why I switched to winter expeditions in 2015. Self-responsibility was what I was looking for. Take responsibility for every step I take and every decision, I take ”.

Tamara knows how expensive the cost of this self-responsibility can be, and she also knows that mountains can be very demanding at times. Also in relation to human life.

In January last year, she left full of excitement with the dream of becoming the first woman to conquer K2 in the winter. But the second highest peak in the world, with its 8,611 meters, smiled neither at her nor at her expedition mates, turning the dream into a tragedy. On January 16, 2021, in the hours when 10 Nepalese mountaineers conquered the summit, Tamara loses her expedition partner, the Basque Sergi Mingote. “I saw it fly down. He was 40 meters – he said on his return to Italy – I could not help but talk to him for about an hour, accompanying him in the sweetest way to his end”. Conditions are extreme, but Tamara does not throw in the towel and is convinced by him who until the day before was Mingote’s climbing partner, the Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr (as the South Tyrolean climber calls JP) to continue the expedition in honor of Sergi. Someone is retiring. But Tamara and others continue to challenge the cold winter on K2. After a few days, on February 5, Tamara loses four more companions. “I felt like something was wrong that the mountain was pushing me back,” Lunger recalls. The 36-year-old decides to give up climbing. He stays in the tent in Camp 3 and then watches his friends walk in the dark to reach the top of the mountain from which they would never return. According to later reconstructions, the Bulgarian Adanas Skatov lost his life by falling several meters, while the other three (Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson, Pakistani Ali Sapdara and Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr) would have disappeared forever on the mountain.

“We immediately understood each other with JP – Lunger will tell you sometime back in Italy – in him I discovered a soulmate. We had become inseparable, we thought of the expedition to make together. We strengthened each other. For both of us it was important to count on the other. JP’s death broke my heart ”.

Last July, five months after the K2 tragedy, Tamara returned to Pakistan. But not for mountaineering reasons. She returned, as she wrote on her Fb page, “with an open heart and with a mission”. “Monday the 5th of July is the 6-month day of the fateful day! What could have been a great joy, however, was the day that changed everything and brought with it really difficult moments and pain and sorrow. It seems like yesterday, and at the same time it seems like a lifetime since.What remains unchanged is how much JP is missing! Also Sergi, Alì, Jon and Atanas of course! Any difficult and painful moment can also bring something beautiful with it, and in this case is it this: we decided to take the baton and continue the project that JP Mohr was so happy about: teaching Pakistani children to climb the Shigar Valley, certainly to entertain them but also to guarantee them a future based on in their land resources.The project is called Climbing for a Reason! ”. JP had chosen the town of Shigrl, located on the banks of the monotonous river and the crossing point for many expeditions for K2, to build a climbing wall to help the community (and especially the girls, often excluded by k cultural reasons) with developing their potential.

“I’m very sorry for the victims of Marmolada – writes the Bolzano climber today on Fb, ‘trembling because these lines touch me a lot’ – but my heart also hurts because there must always be a sinner. Accusations, complaints, outbursts of anger … I know how painful it is to lose a loved one in the mountains, but it never occurred to me to look for someone to blame, even in the case of deaths of 8,000 meters, where you pay $ 10,000 for the permit, there will never be a closure of the mountain, nor a sinner, for it was our free decision to go up there.I would like us that in this time where we are increasingly inclined to look for a responsible person ( even if there is none), trying to accept fate and therefore give ourselves even more peace in our lives.I think the pain is enough.We do not need more negativity to burden us, because unfortunately nothing and no one will bring these people back to As a climber, I can say that we eu Europeans can be grateful. Grateful for the privilege and the opportunity to freely decide when and where to go to the mountains, because that is unfortunately not the case everywhere ”.

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