Who knows if the blue painted blue who made Mimì Modugno famous has nothing to do with his hometown, the one who dedicated the seafront to him and a bronze that opens his arms wide to the houses and the people. Polignano a Mare, to see is to believe, is actually painted a pair of blue between sky and earth, capable of playing with the sky of Ireland as much as with the blue of Curaçao in the Netherlands Antilles. The Apulian is all the more intense thanks to the counterpoint with the white limestone houses clinging to the cliff, where the few, clever (capable of epic getting up early in the morning) and lucky swimmers in the quiet days take place in the front . row at Lama Monachile, the navel around which the city appears to have been built. When the storm roars, however, clear the beach and nature returns sharply to hit the cliff, taking over the scene as Catherine of Heathcliff’s Heart in Wuthering Heights.
Sun or storm, Lama Monachile is the center of gravity permanently, around which everything happens. We will be back. But not before a stop at the lively Pino Pascali Museum, dedicated to the artist of Bristle Worms. To the mother church from the 13th century, which on bare bottom dominates the scene between the village ganglia. And perhaps an episode by the possible book, one of the most populous literary events on the Italian cultural scene, which every summer (generally in early July) fills up with writers, readings and readers up to the farthest gorges of Polignano (so much so that one wonders where they hide the rest of the year).
Those who choose other seasons can, whenever they want, treat yourself to a regenerating pit stop for soul, intellect and core at Il libro possibile café (in piazza Caduti Via Fani), drink a glass of wine, browse or buy a book, listen to the authors hands-free or just a lot of carefully selected music that enjoys the sight of bougainvillea in bloom. In short, one full of beauty, sea and culture, hard to swallow on an empty stomach. No fear. No one can say with a clear conscience that Polignano is stingy with gluttony, nor that the people of Polignano are reluctant to share the secrets behind their good mood with passing travelers. Starts in the morning.
The days that begin in the best direction are those who are blessed by waking up with the special coffee, a very tasty hyperenergic beverage based on coffee, sugar, lemon peel, cream and amaretto, whose original character is claimed since the characters from Super Wizard of Frost (Piazza Garibaldi 22), it was already Mario Campanella, a talented bartender whose name counts as a national monument. A special coffee to be honest, it suits us at all times, even after a royal breakfast based on all the possible and impossible review of dairy products, and cheeses, and fries, and salami, and sweets, in short, all good, right and delicious Puglia products tasted on the terrace overlooking the centuries-old olive trees plus the sea at the Borgobianco resort and spa (Contrada Casello Cavuzzi). It is an arched retiro in the countryside, far from the bustle of mass tourism, but not too far from the city, with a surplus of modern cuisine but pure native craftsmanship signed by the chef Vito Giannuzzi.
The options for lunch or dinnerin fact, they are worth a dedicated chapter and respond to a plurality of tastes, pockets, needs. A wide range enough to satisfy gourmets for meditation and hurried customers looking for a bite between one bath and the next. The second may not be the case for those who choose a Da Tuccino pitstop (Contrada Santa Caterina, 69 / k), patriarch of raw seafood from Puglia exalted to the rank of luxury gluttony: a few times in your life you will hear sea in the mouth as at this table, where the selection of the fish is the result of a ten-year pact with the fishermen of Porto Cesareo, who have always reserved the best for Tuccino in an absolutely exclusive way.
Religion is the same as it inspires Osteria di Chichibio (Largo Gelso, 6), where the brothers Vito and Giacomo Bianchi they know the secrets of the sea, but also the secrets of hospitality and good wine. Not far away, Puro (Via S. Vito, 15/17) offers a version of seafood cuisine that is capable of uniting two hemispheres in a single religion, namely raw ham in a Japanese-Apulian sauce. In short, sushi, yes, but of the highest rank and ingredients of outstanding quality. It’s not a little, but it’s not everything yet. For in the range of options that Polignano offers, there is also a paradise for vegetarians, vegans, raw foodists or Mint – fresh cuisine (Via S. Benedetto, 32), where the pay-off stands for “daily” including fish cooked in Fabrizio Silini’s way, or rather with an eye to the plant world.
Among the most recent born there is Ruz – confidential kitchen (Via Roma 75), Mediterranean formula served in a concept halfway between a restaurant (see Cavalieri spaghetti with fish soup) and a tapas bar complete with buns (homemade), piade and carasau bread, a tribute to love of a Sardinian origin. of patrons. Those who really do not intend to give up the breathtaking view from the textbook can only choose between Il covo dei Saraceni (via Conversano 1) and Grotta Palazzese (via Narciso 59), in the latter case not until they have polished the credit card.
At this time, saturated with dips, drinks and meals with iodine flavor, the only thing left is to cut out a corner of sweetness. And also on this front Polignano reigns. The following addresses are part of the city’s most intimate, well-known encyclopedia. These are old-fashioned bars where things are done with a clean hand and a sincere heart, without giving oneself the make-up to please mass tourism. It is recommended to take note. The palm of the best hazelnut ice cream goes to Vito De Nunzios, magician among the wells and the carapace in Tourism Bar (via Pompeo Sarnelli 7): it is easier for a rich man to enter the kingdom of heaven than for an industrial semi-finished product to cross this door.
That Bar by Peppino (via Roma 88) is instead home to a very special English soup. Instructions for use: this moving trifle from earlier times will be packed strictly on a glass plate to be returned, therefore take care of it as it was once done when nothing was spilled and everything was recycled (applies to the container and not to the contents as you want brush off in an amen time). To close the review, the ice cream cake with coffee spongato and the mulberry granita from Il mago del gelato (Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi) is not missing.
Footnotes. To dispose of the pleasure of your Polignano days swimming Puglia-Greece and back will not be enough. Better to cater for a homecoming with a few extra pounds, but of pure happiness: it’s Puglia, beauty.